A Whistle-Stop Tour of Hangzhou: Two Days of Tranquility and Wonder
When we planned our quick getaway from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai, Hangzhou immediately sprang to mind. Known as “Heaven on Earth” in Chinese folklore, it promised serenity, culture, and an unforgettable stay — and it delivered beyond all expectations.
Day 1: A Lightning-Fast Journey and the Beauty of Xixi Wetlands
We caught an early high-speed train from Shanghai Hongqiao Station, and in less than an hour — yes, under 60 minutes! — we found ourselves nearly 124 miles (almost 200 kilometers) away in Hangzhou. Only in China, where everything feels grand and meticulously efficient, could such a feat feel so effortless. Both Hongqiao and Hangzhou East stations were sprawling complexes, almost cities in themselves.
Fuxing Hao, a Chinese high-speed train, travels 124 miles in under an hour.
Upon arrival, we headed straight to Xixi Wetland Park, a rare urban wetland and one of Hangzhou’s best-kept secrets. Nestled within this lush oasis is the Hangzhou Muh Shoou Xixi Hotel, where we were lucky enough to spend the night. The hotel seamlessly blends architecture with nature — think open-sided structures, flowing lines, and the constant soothing presence of water and trees.
The surroundings of the Hangzhou Muh Shoou Xixi Hotel
Our Courtyard Suite was a private retreat framed by greenery and shimmering ponds. Floor-to-ceiling windows opened to scenes straight out of a classical Chinese painting, and a serene tea area with tatami mats invited us to slow down and savor the moment.
Lunch at the hotel’s Xi Yin restaurant was a sensory journey. Surrounded by lake views through glass walls and an interior inspired by the wetland’s natural textures, we feasted on masterpieces like aged duck and pork wrapped in tofu skin, sweet grilled eel, pork belly braised with bamboo shoots, delicate fish tempura with vinegar pearls, and tender sweet and sour ribs. Each dish was a modern twist on traditional flavors — and each one was unforgettable.
Pork belly braised with bamboo shoots served with rice cakes
Fish tempura with vinegar pearls
Energized, we made our way to the iconic West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its timeless beauty. Framed by willows, pagodas, and misty mountains, West Lake has inspired poets and artists for centuries. We wandered along the Su Causeway and marveled at the reflections dancing on the water — every view felt like a living scroll painting.
Entrance to the West Lake
From there, we headed to Qinghefang Ancient Street, one of Hangzhou’s oldest and most authentic historical quarters. It was like stepping back into the Southern Song Dynasty era, with well-preserved buildings, teahouses, and apothecaries. We visited the ancient Pharmacy House and peered down the centuries-old wells that once supplied water to the bustling neighbourhood.
For a bit of a climb, we ascended to Chenghuang Pavilion. Although the current pavilion is a modern reconstruction, the sweeping views over West Lake from the top were absolutely worth the effort. Along the way, we passed several temples — some newly built, but still evoking a sense of spiritual tranquility.
One of the many temples on the way up to the Chenghuang Pavilion
Sunset over the West Lake, viewed from the Chenghuang Pavilion
Back at our hotel, we settled into the tatami tea area of our suite, brewing delicate Longjing tea, one of China’s most celebrated green teas, grown in the hills surrounding Hangzhou. The soothing ritual, the fresh scent of tea leaves, and the peaceful setting of Xixi Wetlands created a moment of pure Zen.
We slept soundly that night, cradled by the sounds of the forest and water.
Day 2: Wetlands, Canals, and a Rainy Adventure
The next morning, we wandered through Xixi Wetland Park, marveling at its unique landscape of marshes, small rivers, and ponds dotted with thatched cottages and ancient temples. This area is not only a natural wonder but also a cultural treasure, having been a setting for traditional Chinese festivals and poetry for centuries.
Boat ride around the Xixi Wetland Park
A Ming Dynasty villa in the Xixi Wetland Park
In the afternoon, we made our way to the Grand Canal, the longest and oldest man-made canal in the world, connecting Hangzhou to Beijing over 1,100 miles (1,776 kilometers). Dating back to the 5th century BC, the Grand Canal played a vital role in China’s economic and cultural development. We strolled through the village areas near the canal, where whitewashed walls and narrow alleys hinted at centuries of history.
The Grand Canal and the Gongchen bridge, Hangzhou
Unfortunately, a sudden downpour cut our exploration short. But even the heavy rain couldn’t dampen our spirits. Instead, we found refuge in the newly developed Renzo Piano-designed area, where modern architecture and lush landscaping offered a refreshing, contemporary contrast to Hangzhou’s ancient sites. Piano, the famed Italian architect behind the Centre Pompidou in Paris, has infused this space with a sense of openness and integration with nature, creating a unique new cultural quarter for the city.
Finally, it was time to head back to Hangzhou East Station, where another marvel of Chinese engineering whisked us back to Shanghai in under an hour.
Final Thoughts
Our two-day whistle-stop tour of Hangzhou was a reminder of the beauty that arises when nature, history, and modernity coexist in harmony. Whether it was sipping Longjing tea in the stillness of the wetlands, savoring world-class cuisine overlooking a tranquil lake, or marveling at the timeless reflections on West Lake, Hangzhou left an indelible mark on our hearts.
We will be back — next time, for a longer stay.
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