Five Days in Northwest Kyushu: A Road Trip Adventure
Landing in Fukuoka and picking up a rental car at the airport was just the start of an unforgettable five-day adventure through northwest Kyushu. From savoring live squid sashimi in Karatsu to exploring volcanic landscapes and hidden historical gems, this road trip was packed with spectacular views, vibrant cultural experiences, and some of the best food Japan has to offer. Here’s a first-hand account, divided into 3 parts, of our journey—perfect inspiration for your own Kyushu adventure.
Cherry Blossom, Kyushu
About Kyushu
Kyushu, Japan’s third-largest island, lies in the country’s southwestern corner and is famous for its stunning natural landscapes, rich history, vibrant cities, and exceptional cuisine. It’s an island of contrasts—from volcanic peaks and lush forests to coastal towns steeped in history. Given its vast size and diversity, our five-day adventure focused specifically on the northwest region, which offered a perfect blend of cultural highlights, culinary delights, and natural wonders to explore at a leisurely yet exciting pace.
Day 1: Arrival in Fukuoka and Evening in Karatsu
We touched down at Fukuoka Airport around 5 PM, greeted by the warm, humid air of Kyushu. Picking up our rental car from Orix at the airport was smooth, and soon we were on the road, excited for the journey ahead. The drive to Karatsu took about an hour and a half, taking me past lush green hills and glimpses of the sea as dusk fell. By the time we reached Karatsu city, the sky was indigo and the streets were quiet, lit by old-fashioned lanterns. We checked into a cozy local hotel and felt immediately at ease in this small coastal town.
Eating live squid sashimi, Karatsu
Dinner that night was an unforgettable introduction to Karatsu’s seafood. We found a local eatery famed for its ika no ikizukuri – live squid sashimi. The chef brought out a translucent squid, artfully arranged on a platter of ice. The flesh was so fresh it was almost transparent, and the tentacles were still moving – a slight wriggle that both startled and fascinated us. With a deep breath, we sampled the sashimi. It had a clean, sweet taste of the sea and a surprisingly firm texture, absolutely delicious. After we had eaten the sashimi, the staff took the remaining squid parts back to the kitchen and returned with crisp tempura made from the squid’s legs. The contrast was perfect: the tempura was hot, golden and lightly salted, a satisfying finish to the ultra-fresh sashimi experience.
Karatsu Shrine at night
After dinner we took a leisurely evening stroll through Karatsu. The streets were calm, and we passed several small izakayas with locals chatting inside. Karatsu is famous for its annual festival, so as we walked we weren’t surprised to see photos and posters of enormous festival floats on display in shop windows. These Hikiyama floats are the pride of Karatsu – massive, colorful creations that parade through the city each year during Karatsu Kunchi. We even spotted a plaque describing them: apparently they’re giant wooden floats up to 5–6 meters high and weighing as much as 2–5 tons! The floats often take the shape of samurai helmets, dragons or mythical sea creatures, and locals spend years crafting them. Though we were visiting off-season, just seeing the photos of these majestic floats gave me a sense of the town’s community spirit and history. With that image in mind, we headed back to the hotel to rest, falling asleep to the sound of distant ocean waves.
Day 2: Yobuko Morning Market, Karatsu Castle, Arita Porcelain, and Unzen Onsen
We woke up before dawn to drive to Yobuko, a small fishing port north of Karatsu, famed for its daily morning market. The road was quiet as the sun began to rise, and we arrived in Yobuko early enough to see the market just coming to life. The Yobuko Morning Market (Yobuko Asaichi) is often mentioned among Japan’s best morning markets – it’s been running for over a century. Walking down the street, we felt like we’d stepped back in time. Elderly vendors lined both sides of the narrow road, energetically calling out to potential customers. You could tell this town had seen busier days as a booming fishing hub, and while Yobuko is a bit faded now, the market retains a special energy thanks to these dedicated shopkeepers. The salty smell of the sea mixed with the aromas of cooking food, and my stomach rumbled. We hadn’t eaten breakfast yet, so we happily snacked our way through the market on seafood delicacies foraged from different stalls:
Sake-boiled whelks (tsubugai), Yobuko Morning Market
Fresh squid tempura – Tender pieces of squid caught that morning, lightly battered and fried on the spot. They were handed to us piping hot in a paper cone, the batter wonderfully crisp and the squid inside sweet and chewy.
Steamed octopus balls – Not takoyaki, but actual golf-ball-sized chunks of octopus tentacle that had been slowly steamed until tender. The vendor speared one with a toothpick for us to try. It was pleasantly chewy and briny, and surprisingly filling.
Sake-boiled whelks (tsubugai) – Huge sea snail shells caught my eye at one stall. These whelks had been simmered in sake and soy sauce, and the vendor showed us how to use a toothpick to extract the meaty snail from its shell. I popped the morsel in my mouth – it was firm and slightly chewy, with a rich, oceanic flavor that was enhanced by the savory sake broth.
Eating seafood this fresh, basically straight off the boat, for breakfast was a novel experience and absolutely delicious. As we ate, we chatted (with Google Translate and hand gestures) with a friendly Japanese couple eating whelks with us. Even though Yobuko isn’t as bustling as it once was, the market street was lively, and we felt a sense of nostalgia and warmth there. With a contented belly, we thanked the vendors and bought a bag of sun-dried cuttlefish as a souvenir snack for later.
View from Karatsu Castle
Leaving Yobuko, we drove back toward Karatsu to do a bit of sightseeing we’d missed the night before. Our first stop was Karatsu Castle, which sits on a hill by the bay. The castle was originally built in the early 17th century, though the current building is a reconstruction from 1966, rebuilt to serve as a local history museum and symbol of the city. The castle keep (donjon) rises five stories high, painted white with traditional grey tiles, and from afar it looked majestic against the blue sky. We climbed up the stone steps, surrounded by lush greenery, to reach the castle. Inside, the exhibits on local history were modest, but the real treat was the view from the top floor. Stepping out onto the observation deck, I was greeted with a panoramic view of Karatsu: the town spread out below, the curved beach, and the vast Genkai Sea shimmering beyond. In the distance, I could see a dark green band stretching along the coast – this was Nijinomatsubara, Karatsu’s famous pine forest.
Nijinomatsubara, Karatsu’s famous pine forest
After descending from the castle, we decided to drive through Nijinomatsubara on our way out of Karatsu. This pine forest is about 5 kilometers long, a dense grove of some one million black pine trees planted centuries ago. Legend has it that the forest was planted in the 17th century by the local feudal lord to protect Karatsu Castle from sea winds and invading sand. Driving along the straight road that cuts through these pines felt magical – tall trees flanked both sides, their branches forming a tunnel of green. Sunlight filtered through needled boughs, and occasionally we caught glimpses of the ocean between the trunks. It was a refreshing, fragrant drive (the scent of pine and ocean air is something I won’t forget), and we even pulled over briefly to walk a short trail into the forest. Within a few steps, the sounds of traffic faded and we were surrounded by towering pines and the soft carpet of needles underfoot. This tranquil natural spot is considered one of Japan’s three great pine groves, and it’s easy to see why – it felt like a living work of art.
Back on the road, we headed southwest toward Arita, eager to explore the hometown of Japanese porcelain. The countryside scenery along the way was beautiful – rolling hills and terraced rice fields – and after about an hour we arrived in Arita. This small town in Saga Prefecture is celebrated as Japan’s ceramics capital, known for Arita-yaki (Arita ware) porcelain. The history here is fascinating: about 400 years ago, Korean potters brought their expertise to Kyushu. In 1616 a Korean potter named Yi Sam-pyeong discovered high-quality kaolin clay in Arita, which led to the birth of Japan’s first porcelain industry. Soon, exquisite Arita porcelains were being produced and shipped around the world (often via nearby Imari port), even influencing European ceramics. We visited the Tōzan Shrine. It has a porcelain archway and other items of porcelain which, at other shrines, are usually made of stone. This Shinto shrine was and still is particularly revered by Arita's ceramists.
Tōzan Shrine, Arita - the only shrine in Japan with a porcelain archway
The town itself was like a playground for a pottery lover. Kilns, workshops, and shops line the streets, many with chimneys poking up into the sky. We strolled down Kamamoto-dori (Potter’s Street), peeking into quaint stores filled floor-to-ceiling with porcelain ware. There were delicate hand-painted teacups, bold modern ceramic art pieces, everyday plates and bowls, and everything in between. One highlight was visiting a warehouse sale where we could literally rummage through piles of pottery. Picture a rustic shed behind one of the pottery studios, with stacks of wooden crates covered in heaps of plates, cups, and vases – all the excess or slightly imperfect pieces from the kilns. It was a delightful treasure hunt: we gently sifted through stacks of saucers and bowls, trying to spot any hidden gems. They weren’t perfect (a little asymmetry here, a tiny glaze bubble there), but that made them feel even more special as handmade mementos of Arita. Wrapping up my “finds” carefully, we grabbed a quick coffee at a café housed in a former porcelain factory (even the coffee cups were Arita-yaki, of course) and then continued on our journey.
By late afternoon, we were back on the road, driving south toward Unzen in Nagasaki Prefecture. The road wound through mountains as we ascended the Shimabara Peninsula. We arrived in the town of Unzen Onsen by early evening. Unzen is a highland onsen (hot spring) town famously nestled among thermal hot springs and volcanic landscapes. We had booked a stay at a traditional ryokan overlooking a peaceful mountain lake (Lake Oshidori). The ryokan was a classic wooden building with tatami-mat rooms and yukata robes laid out for guests. From our room’s window, we gazed out at the lake, and the water reflected the twilight sky and forested hills.
Our room in the Ryokan, overlooking the lake, Unzen
From the hot springs of Unzen, day three took us deeper into the volcanic landscapes and historical sites of Nagasaki Prefecture, and on to the city of Kumamoto.
Japanese breakfast at Ryokan, Unzen
Day 3: Unzen’s Hells, Scenic Passes, Hidden Christian History, and Kumamoto Castle
Morning in Unzen was nothing short of heavenly. We woke up early and started our day with another soak in the onsen – there’s something indulgent about a morning hot spring bath that makes you feel both tranquil and invigorated at the same time. The air was crisp and cool outside the water, but the bath was perfectly hot, easing us into the day. After bathing, we enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast at the ryokan. It was a beautifully laid out tray with grilled fish, tamagoyaki (rolled omelet), nori seaweed, pickles, miso soup, and the centerpiece: a pot of freshly steamed Nagasaki rice. The rice had been cooked in a small cast-iron pot and was incredibly fluffy and fragrant. There’s a saying that the best compliment you can give rice is that you can eat it on its own – and this rice definitely passed that test! We savored each bite, knowing we had a full day ahead.
By mid-morning we headed out to explore Unzen’s famous Jigoku, literally “Hells.” Just a short walk from the town center, we found ourselves in what looked like an otherworldly scene: a barren valley with steaming sulphur vents, bubbling mud pools, and hissing hot springs everywhere. The ground was white-yellow with mineral deposits, and the air was thick with the smell of sulfur (like overcooked eggs, but you get used to it). This area, called Unzen Jigoku, has been a tourist attraction since the Meiji era and is part of Unzen National Park – which, fun fact, was designated as Japan’s first national park in 1934. Wooden boardwalks led us through the smoking landscape. We could hear the gurgle of boiling water beneath us and occasionally a loud hiss as steam burst forth from the earth. There are around 30 geothermal hotspots scattered about, each with names like “Oito Jigoku” and “Shiraginu Jigoku.” Some had milky water bubbling violently, others just expelled steam from fissures in the rocks. Despite the ominous name “hell,” I found the scene strangely beautiful – like a living, breathing planet showing off its raw power.
One of the many “hells” in Unzen
However, Unzen’s Hells hold a dark historical significance as well. During the 17th century, when Christianity was banned in Japan, this very spot was used as an execution ground for Christian martyrs. It’s chilling to imagine, but Christians were tortured here in the boiling waters to force them to renounce their faith, and some were ultimately killed – it’s said 33 Christians were martyred in Unzen’s waters between 1627 and 1631. Today a small memorial stands in the area, the “Unzen Jigoku Martyrdom Site,” to commemorate those who lost their lives. The juxtaposition of the natural beauty and its historical horror was poignant.
Nita Pass, Unzen
From Unzen Onsen, we hopped back in the car and drove further up into the mountains to Nita Pass (Nita-toge). The road to Nita Pass was a winding mountain road, with each turn offering sweeping views of the valley below. Partway up, we parked and we were treated to a breathtaking panorama: a sea of clouds drifted over the peaks and we could see the shimmering Ariake Sea and Shimabara Peninsula stretching out below. Mount Unzen is actually a series of volcanic peaks, including the infamous Heisei Shinzan, a newer lava dome that formed after Unzen’s eruption in the early 1990s. From the observation deck, we could see the rugged shape of Heisei Shinzan, still looking a bit barren from the eruption’s aftermath. The air up there was fresh, with a slight smell of sulphur reminding us of the volcano’s presence. The scenery was lush and alive, a stark contrast to the hellscape just a few kilometers below. Standing at Nita Pass, we felt on top of the world – it was one of those moments where you take a deep breath of mountain air and just feel grateful to be experiencing it.
A Christian statue honors those who lost their lives at Hara Castle Ruins, Minamishimabara.
After descending from Nita Pass, we began making our way towards the coast of the peninsula for the next leg of the journey. Driving along country roads, we headed to the southern tip of the Shimabara Peninsula, to visit the Hara Castle Ruins in Minamishimabara. At first glance, Hara Castle doesn’t look like a typical castle; today it’s an open field on a coastal bluff, with only scattered stone foundations and some earthworks left. But this site holds immense historical importance. It was here in 1637–1638 that the Shimabara Rebellion, a massive uprising of mostly Christian peasants, took its final stand. The rebels, led by a young Christian leader named Amakusa Shirō, fortified themselves in the abandoned Hara Castle and held out against the shogunate’s forces for months. Eventually, the castle fell, and what followed was a grim tragedy. The shogunate’s army, furious and unforgiving, executed an estimated 37,000 rebels and sympathizers – men, women, and children – by beheading, effectively crushing the rebellion. Standing on this ground gave me goosebumps. It’s hard to imagine that level of carnage in such a now-peaceful spot; the grass swayed gently in the sea breeze and I could hear waves crash against the cliffs below. There is a small monument and some informational signs (as part of the UNESCO “Hidden Christian Sites” since this is indeed a UNESCO World Heritage site now). This quiet field was once soaked in blood and tears, and it marked the end of Christianity in Japan for over two centuries. It was a somber visit, but meaningful – a reminder of how much history lies hidden in tranquil places.
From Minamishimabara, we drove to the port of Shimabara and caught the ferry to Kumamoto on the other side of the bay. The car ferry was a pleasant 60-minute ride across the shimmering waters of Ariake Sea. We stood on the deck, watching seagulls trail the boat. In the distance behind us, the silhouette of Unzen’s mountains faded into the haze, and ahead, the land of Kumamoto grew closer. By late afternoon, we arrived at Kumamoto City, a lively city on Kyushu’s west coast. Our primary goal for the evening was to see Kumamoto Castle, one of Japan’s most impressive and storied castles.
Outer Wall, Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto Castle did not disappoint – even from afar, it’s an imposing sight with its towering black-and-white keeps and extensive fortifications. Often cited as one of Japan’s top three premier castles (alongside Himeji and Matsumoto), Kumamoto Castle was originally built in the early 1600s by the famed lord Katō Kiyomasa. The main tower (tenshu) is massive and black-walled, with distinctive curved stone ramparts at its base known as musha-gaeshi designed to thwart climbers. We arrived near closing time, so we couldn’t go inside the castle museum, but walking around the outer grounds was incredible. Kumamoto Castle’s exterior has been largely restored after a history of warfare and even a recent earthquake. As we strolled through the castle park, the late-day sun lit up the castle towers, and we could see ongoing restoration work (scaffolding on some sections) from the 2016 earthquakes that had damaged parts of it. Even so, the main silhouette of the castle looked magnificent against the orange sky. we wandered along the moat, marveling at the huge stone walls and imagining the samurai who once walked these grounds. Locals were out jogging or walking their dogs around the park – such a casual setting for one of Japan’s greatest castles! When the lights came on after sunset, the castle was illuminated in a soft glow, giving it a romantic, ethereal atmosphere.
The centre of Kumamoto was buzzing in the early evening, with numerous shops and eateries lining up the pedestrianised area. It reminds me of Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street at Osaka, albeit with its own unique charm, such as the image of Kumamon, the beloved bear mascot representing Kumamoto Prefecture. Introduced in 2010 as part of the “Kumamoto Surprise” campaign to promote the region following the opening of the Kyushu Shinkansen line, Kumamon quickly captured hearts across Japan and internationally. His name combines “kuma” (meaning bear in Japanese) and “mon,” a regional dialect term meaning “person” or “thing,” effectively translating to “bear from Kumamoto” . With his round black body, red cheeks, and playful demeanor, Kumamon has become one of Japan’s most iconic and endearing regional mascots.
As night fell, I reflected on the day’s journey: from volcanic hells and hidden Christian sites to this proud castle, we had truly traveled through centuries of history in a single day. Kumamoto Castle stands proudly in Kumamoto City. Visiting this historic fortress – considered one of Japan’s top three castles – was a highlight of Day 3. The castle’s massive wooden keep and black walls have been painstakingly restored and still exude the power and elegance of feudal Japan.
The last two days took us to Takachiho Gorge and Mount Aso, then back to Fukuoka for a culinary finale and some unhurried last-minute shopping.
Day 4: Mythical Takachiho Gorge and the Majesty of Mount Aso, then Back to Fukuoka
Takachiho Gorge
We rose early in Takachiho, a town nestled in the mountains of Miyazaki Prefecture that’s steeped in Japanese mythology. Takachiho is famous for its gorge and its legends, and we were eager to see both. We were at the Takachiho Gorge just after 8am, and it was like stepping into a fantasy. The Gokase River has carved a narrow chasm through volcanic rock, creating vertical cliffs draped in lush greenery. At the bottom, emerald-green water flows gently, and from the cliffside pours the beautiful Manai Falls, a slender white ribbon of water dropping into the river below. We decided to walk along the gorge to see the falls up close. As we went deeper into the gorge, the temperature dropped a little – cool mist from the waterfall and shade from the high cliffs made it refreshingly cool. The walk through Takachiho Gorge was enchanting: the basalt cliff walls are hexagonal, almost looking like giant stone pillars stacked tightly. Small cascades dripped down the mossy walls, and every bend revealed a new angle of the waterfall. When we got right in front of Manai Falls, we took a pause to take it in – a curtain of water plunging into the calm river, sunlight hitting the spray and forming a faint rainbow. It was one of the most stunning natural sights I’ve seen – steep verdant cliffs, clear water, and that ethereal waterfall combined into pure magic.
After visiting the gorge we explored some of the local shrines in Takachiho, which are tied deeply to Japanese mythology. Takachiho is known as the land where one of Japan’s most important myths took place. According to legend, the sun goddess Amaterasu once hid herself in a cave here after a quarrel with her brother, the storm god Susano’o, plunging the world into darkness. The other gods gathered at Amano-Iwato (the “heavenly rock cave” in Takachiho) to figure out how to get her to come out. They decided to throw a raucous party outside the cave. One goddess, Ame-no-Uzume, began dancing hilariously – a dance so bawdy and comic that it made all the gods roar with laughter. Curious about the noise, Amaterasu peeked out of the cave, and at that moment the strong god Ame-no-Tajikarao yanked her out, bringing sunlight back to the world.
Amano Iwato Shrine
We visited the Amano Iwato Shrine, which is dedicated to this legend. The shrine itself is a serene spot in the woods, and a priest kindly guided us to an observation point where we could look across a river valley at the cave (by tradition, you can’t approach the cave directly since it’s a sacred site, and photography is not allowed). It was pretty awe-inspiring to stand in the area where this mythological event is said to have occurred – it’s like being at the setting of an ancient story. The idea of the sun disappearing and then being brought back to light the world made the daylight around us feel even more precious.
We also stopped by Takachiho Shrine, a venerable shrine in town surrounded by huge cedar trees. This shrine is famous for nightly Yokagura dances, which reenact the myth of Amaterasu and other stories (performed in winter months). Though we weren’t there at night to see a performance, even during the day the shrine had a mystical atmosphere. Tall cedars towered over the pathways, and shimenawa ropes (sacred ropes) wrapped around their massive trunks, signifying their holy status. A pair of carved stone dogs (koma-inu) guarded the entrance, their features softened by moss and time. I rang the shrine bell and made a simple prayer, feeling grateful for safe travels and the chance to witness such culturally rich places.
Leaving the realm of myths behind, we drove southward toward Mount Aso, one of Japan’s greatest natural landmarks. Mount Aso is an enormous volcano, known for having one of the largest calderas in the world – basically a huge basin formed by ancient volcanic eruptions, within which several peaks, including the active crater Naka-dake, are found. The drive into the Aso region was gorgeous, especially as we entered the caldera area: gentle grassy plains spread out, dotted with grazing horses and cows (Aso is famous for ranching), and the skyline was dominated by the smoking cone of Naka-dake.
Crater of Mount Aso
We went up to the Mount Aso viewpoint (at Daikanbo) to fully appreciate the scale. From there, looking out over the Aso caldera felt like looking over a whole kingdom. The caldera stretches about 25 km across, with a patchwork of fields and villages on the flat valley floor and a ring of mountains encircling it. In the center were the active peaks, including Mt. Naka, which was billowing a column of white smoke from its crater. We were lucky that conditions were safe that day to go up to the crater itself (sometimes access is closed due to poisonous gases or activity). So we drove up to the Aso Volcano Museum area and crater rim. The landscape turned otherworldly again – black lava rocks, sparse vegetation, and the strong smell of sulphur as we neared the crater. We parked and walked to the crater’s edge (staying behind the safety ropes).
Kusasenri-ga-hama, Aso
Looking down into Mount Aso’s active crater was thrilling: there was a bubbling neon-turquoise lake at the bottom, steaming and hissing. The inner walls of the crater were stained yellow and orange from sulphur. Every now and then, the wind would shift and a gust of sulphurous steam would make everyone cough and step back. It truly felt like peering into the Earth’s boiling cauldron. I was both in awe of nature’s power and maybe a tiny bit nervous knowing I was standing on an active volcano. But there were plenty of other tourists and even school kids on trips, all equally amazed. We snapped lots of photos and then retreated to get some fresh air. On our way down, we stopped at one more spot: Kusasenri-ga-hama, a picturesque grassy plain at the foot of Mt. Eboshi (another Aso peak), where horses roam freely. The afternoon light over the green plain, with horses nibbling on grass and the smoking volcano in the background, was a scene of peaceful coexistence between pastoral life and the raw forces of nature.
By late afternoon, it was time to head back to Fukuoka to conclude our loop around northwestern Kyushu. The drive from Aso back to Fukuoka took a couple of hours. We passed through rolling hills and then onto the expressway. The sun was setting as we approached Fukuoka, painting the sky in hues of pink and gold. We re-entered the urban world of Fukuoka City in the evening, the lights of the city twinkling and modern high-rises coming into view. It felt almost jarring after days of castles, hot springs, and country roads – but Fukuoka is a comfortable and fun city, so I was also looking forward to a final night here. We checked into a hotel near Hakata Station. Dinner was kept simple after such a long day; we found a casual yatai (street food stall) near the hotel and snacked under the night sky. Tired, we sank into my hotel bed that night, and couldn’t help but marvel at how much we had experienced in just four days.
Yatai street food, Hakata
Day 5: Fukuoka Foodie Finds and Farewell
Our final day in Kyushu was dedicated to enjoying Fukuoka – especially its food and some last-minute shopping. Fukuoka is known as one of Japan’s great food cities, particularly famous for its hearty Hakata ramen and street food, so we were excited to indulge before heading home.
In the morning, we sought out a highly recommended local bakery café called Dacomecca (stylized as DACOMECCA). It was tucked away on a side street near Hakata Station, and as soon as we entered, the smell of freshly baked bread and coffee enveloped us. This bakery has a bit of a cult following; it’s known for creative pastries that blend Japanese and Western styles. We grabbed a tray and tongs (as is typical in Japanese bakeries) and picked out a few treats: a tamagoyaki (egg) sandwich; a ham and cheese sandwich; a delicious pastel de nata; and a fluffy croissant that the staff insisted we try. We ordered hot lattes and ended up with an eclectic pastry feast!. Biting into each piece of bakery, I could see why Dacomecca is so loved. The croissant was indeed excellent, buttery and flaky as any I’ve had in France. It was a slow, relaxing breakfast, and a nice change after so many rice-based meals. Sometimes, a good coffee and pastry can be just as memorable as a fancy kaiseki dinner...
Tomonzoe Honten, Hakata
After breakfast, we decided to do a bit of shopping and wandering. One stop on our list was a famous liquor store called Tomonzoe Honten. We wanted to pick up some local alcohol as souvenirs – perhaps a bottle of shochu or sake unique to Kyushu. Tomonzoe Honten turned out to be a treasure trove. It’s an old shop with a charming, cluttered interior, shelves upon shelves of bottles. There are so many choices that I’d love to buy: a bottle of Imo Shochu (sweet potato shochu) from Kagoshima, a local craft umeshu (plum liqueur) made with green tea from Yame, and a pretty bottle of sake from a Fukuoka brewery. I also spotted jars of homemade umeshu with whole plums in them and a wall of various distilled spirits. It felt like a place with a lot of history – the kind of liquor store that has been family-run for generations.
Next, we headed to the Tenjin Underground Shopping Mall (Tenjin Chikagai) for some last-minute shopping and to escape a light drizzle that had started outside. Tenjin Chikagai is an amazing place – it’s essentially a long, elegant underground street lined with over 150 shops, boutiques, and cafes, all beautifully designed. The floor is tiled, the ceilings have painted patterns, and it has a slightly European feel to its design. As we walked through, we browsed everything from trendy clothing stores to cosmetics and gift shops. We ended up buying some local snacks (I stocked up on Hakata Torimon sweets – a kind of bean-paste filled butter cookie that’s a famous Fukuoka omiyage, perfect for sharing with colleagues back home). The underground mall is so extensive that you can pop up in various parts of the Tenjin area, but we navigated it pretty well and found ourselves in the modern Daimaru Department Store at one end. In the basement food hall of Daimaru (I can never resist a depachika!), we marveled at the gorgeous array of prepared foods and sweets. We picked up a box of Nagasaki castella cake and some spicy Karashi mentaiko (marinated cod roe) – both local specialties – to take home.
Hakata Ramen
For lunch, it had to be Hakata ramen. We chose a popular ramen-ya known for the local style. Fukuoka’s Hakata ramen is famous worldwide for its milky, rich pork-bone broth (tonkotsu) and ultra-thin noodles cooked firm (what locals call barikata if you like them extra firm). We sat at the counter and soon had steaming bowls in front of us: a creamy, opaque broth topped with slices of tender chashu pork, a sprinkle of green scallions, some pickled red ginger, and a drizzle of black garlic oil. The thin noodles were perfect to slurp. I added a spoonful of spicy mustard greens and a clove of freshly crushed garlic to mine (you can customize to taste). The first sip of that broth was like a hug for the soul – thick, collagen-rich, and garlicky, it’s the ultimate comfort food. The noodles, being so thin, pick up the broth wonderfully with each slurp. We ate quietly, the only sounds being contented slurping (in Japan it’s polite to slurp your noodles!). The description from a guidebook I once read came to mind exactly as I tasted it: “ultra-thin ramen noodles in a rich pork broth topped with simmered pork slices, black mushrooms, red ginger, and scallions” – yes, that was precisely what I was devouring. It was heaven in a bowl and a fitting final meal in Fukuoka. Feeling full, I performed the Hakata ramen ritual of kaedama – ordering an extra serving of noodles to finish off the remaining broth. The shop staff, with practiced speed, refilled my bowl with a fresh tangle of noodles, and I happily continued until every drop of broth was gone.
Love eating ramen with a high ball or a whisky sour
See the Side of Japan Only an Insider Can Show You
If this journey through Kyushu has sparked your sense of adventure, we’d love to help you experience it for yourself—without the hassle. At Expeditioner Travel, we specialize in crafting tailored, all-inclusive itineraries that offer a premium to luxury experience in lesser-known parts of Japan like Kyushu. Whether you’re dreaming of soaking in tranquil hot springs, dining on the freshest seafood, or exploring rich cultural and historical gems off the beaten path, we’ll take care of every detail. Get in touch with us today to start planning your unforgettable Kyushu escape.
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Nagasaki beef
After checking in, we were served a kaiseki dinner in the ryokan’s dining hall. Course after course of seasonal dishes arrived, each beautifully presented on local ceramic ware. There was a clear broth with tofu and local vegetables, sashimi, and a grilled river fish (yamame trout) skewered on a bamboo stick, salted and roasted over a charcoaled fire – it tasted clean and sweet. The highlight was Nagasaki wagyu beef, served as thin slices on a small tabletop grill so I could cook each piece to my liking. The beef was exquisite: marbled, buttery, practically melting in my mouth.
Fully satisfied, we changed into the cotton yukata and headed for the onsen bath. The ryokan’s onsen had both indoor and outdoor baths fed by Unzen’s natural hot springs. Slipping into the steaming mineral water was pure bliss after a long day of traveling. The outdoor bath faced the lake – in the darkness we could just make out the silhouette of trees and the glitter of stars overhead. We let the hot water soak away the day’s fatigue as we listened to the chorus of frogs and the occasional hoot of an owl. In that moment, with all senses relaxed, we felt completely content. That night we fell asleep on the futon feeling the calm that only a hot-spring ryokan can provide.
You can see Part 2 of this trip blog in the link here.
See the Side of Japan Only an Insider Can Show You
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→ Japan, three ways — the northwest Kyushu drive planned day by day, either side of a Tokyo, Yokohama or Osaka sailing.
